Become H.E.R.D Bound Learn To Communicate With Your Horse Through Natural Body Language
Developing a natural bond with your horse that is balanced and in line with their understanding is the foundation for all training . Your horse will willingly submit to whatever you ask it to do if you are viewed as the herd boss. Learning how to harness that natural power and apply it to your training routine is the only true way to get solid results.
Solid results equal a solid, well mannered horse. Your horse is more than willing and totally able to behave himself and follow direction all he needs is a strong confident leader. Eliminate pushy behavior!
By studying herd dynamics I have found simple excercises anyone can perform to maintain the control needed to train any horse to be well mannered and balanced without beating it into submission.
The Fundamentals Of Horsemanship Success:
Work smarter not harder. Work with your horses natural instincts instead of against them. Teach them to trust and to follow without producing fear. Learn how to be more relaxed & confident in your approaches and avoid creating bad bahavior. Stop fearing your horse and start enjoying your horse!
"If you talk to the animals they will talk with you and you will know each other. If you do not talk to them you will not know them and what you do not know, you will fear. What one fears, one destroys." - Chief Dan George
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These are various articles of interest in the care & maintenance of horses. Each article has been carefully selected to give my visitors information to aid them in providing quality care for their equine friends. Topics are horse health care, training, training aids, common questions, and just general basic horse care questions. If you find them useful please share this page with friends.
As a horse owner, you may be required to give your horse vaccines on occasion. If you are not comfortable giving your horse a shot, then you should have your veterinarian or someone whos had experience administer the shot. Knowing how to give your horse routine vaccinations can save you fees for ranch visits by your vet or the hassle of trailering your horse to the vet. Have your vet teach you how to administer shots so you know how to give vaccinations in the future.
Many vaccines are administered through intramuscular injections into a large muscle mass. Giving your horse an intramuscular shot is not difficult to learn. Intramuscular injections are administered so the medication is injected into your horses muscle mass.
The type of medication and dosage your horse needs and how it is to be administered should be determined by your vet. After giving your horse any shots, replace the plastic cover over the needle and place along with syringes in a sealable container and take them to your veterinarian's office for disposal.
Before administering the shot, brush away any noticeable dirt from the injection area. Using a sterile needle and syringe is more important in the prevention of infections to the injection area than thoroughly cleaning the site.
Your horse will most likely allow you to administer a shot without any objection; however, you should always have a handler when giving your horse a shot. You and the handler should be on the same side. If your horse pulls while giving the shot, move with the horse and continue the injection when it calms down. If your horse tries to kick, the horses head should be pulled toward the handler to make the horse swing its back-end away from you.
The base of your horse's neck is a preferred location for administering a shot. It allows you to remain in a fairly safe area by your horse's shoulder. Locate the injection area by placing the heel of your hand on the base of your horse's neck where it joins the shoulder and midway between the top and bottom of the neck. The injection area is the part covered by your palm.
When giving the shot, insert the needle perpendicular into the muscle and all the way to the hub where it attaches to the syringe so that it is deep into the muscle mass. Insert the needle with a quick stab.
Next, attach the syringe and pull back slightly on the plunger (aspirate) before injecting any medication. If any blood is drawn when pulling back the plunger, you will need to pull the needle out and start over in a new area with a clean needle. If there is no blood drawn, then slowly inject the medication.
A method some use to distract their horse from the stick of a needle is to pinch the horses skin next to the injection site for a few moments. Then while holding the pinched skin, insert the needle into the injection site.
Discuss with your vet about any signs of allergic reaction before administering any medication to your horse. Observe your horse for any signs of allergic reaction for about 60 minutes after giving an injection.
Randall Holman, site owner of FrontRangeFrenzy.com and horse enthusiast, is the author of this article. You will find other easy and practical basic horse care information on his website.
A bit is used by horsemen to communicate with their horse while riding. The bit rests inside a horse's mouth in the back on the gums where there are no teeth and is held in place with a bridle. A couple of common bit designs include:
Snaffle bit - consists of the bit mouthpiece with rings attached on each side and works by applying direct pressure without leverage on the mouth. It applies pressure on the back gums, tongue and corner of the mouth.
Curb bit - uses a type of lever called a shank placing pressure on the back gums, tongue, and roof of the mouth. The rider's signal is also felt over the horse's poll and on the chin though use of a curb strap.
Bits consists of two basic components, the bit mouthpiece, which is placed inside the horse's mouth, and the bit rings (for a snaffle bit) or shanks (for a curb bit) where the bridle and reins attach.
Bits act with pressure and leverage. The mouth piece does not define the bit type. It is the rings or leverage on the side pieces used to act on the horse's mouth that determines if it is a curb or snaffle bit. Snaffle bits apply pressure directly to the horse's mouth through the reins attached to the rings on each side of the bit. The rider applies pressure indirectly with curb bits through leverage action of the reins attached to the end of the shanks (levers).
Curb bits place more leverage on the horse than snaffle bits. With curb bits, the amount of pressure asserted through the reins will be exerted several times greater on the horse's mouth. When curb bits are used, ride with a loose rein and only use light pressure. Curb bits are more appropriate for well trained horses.
Snaffle bits are gentler on a horse's mouth and tend to be more mild and comfortable for the horse. Unlike the curb bit that exerts a much greater force through leverage, the force you apply on a snaffle bit through the reins is the only amount of pressure put on the horse's mouth.
Randall Holman, site owner of FrontRangeFrenzy.com and horse enthusiast, is the author of this article.
When asking the question, how much weight can a horse carry? you often hear a response similar to it depends on the breed of the horse, its conditioning and conformation, how far and how long you will be traveling, the horses bone structure, the type of weight the horse will carry (for example live [rider] or dead weight [gear]), weight distribution and so on. So with this sound advice from your fellow horsemen, surely you now have a much better idea of how much weight your horse can carry. No? Of course not. Though your colleagues are correct in stating all the above factors, you are still left in the dark without any guideline on how much weight a horse can carry. Can my horse only carry 80 pounds, or is he capable of carrying 300 pounds?
Fortunately some very smart horsemen over the years have come up with a few methods for us to calculate a starting point to help determine how much weight a horse can carry. One very simple guide is to take the horses weight and divide by six to give you the total weight, including rider and tack, the horse can carry. Given this, a 1200 pound horse could carry up to 200 pounds.
Another quick and popular method is to use the 20% rule. You take 20% of your horses body weight and the result is the amount of total weight your horse can carry. For example, a 1,000 pound horse should easily carry 200 pounds of rider and tack. The 20% rule typically applies to competitive or otherwise hard riding. For pleasure riding, many use a 30% rule, so this 1,000 pound horse could carry 300 pounds for shorter pleasure rides.
Measuring a horses cannon bone is used by some in determining the approximate weight a horse can carry. A measurement is taken around the circumference of the foreleg, just below the knee. Add together the weight of the horse plus the rider and tack, and divide this sum by the cannon bone circumference measurement. Then divide that result by two. A number between 75 and 85 is good. If the number is over 85, you probably need a larger horse. Using this method, I measure the circumference of the horses cannon bone and get 7.5 inches. The body weight of the horse is 1,150 pounds and the rider and gear weigh 235 pounds for a total combined weight of 1,350 pounds. Divide 1,350 (total combined weight) by 7.5 (cannon bone) and I get roughly 185. Divide 185 in half and my final resulting number is 93. Using this calculating method, I either need to lighten my gear or get a larger horse to get the number down to around 85.
Some horse and rider guidelines where carrying weight is concerned:
•Pick a horse with bigger cannon bones, wider loins, shorter back
•Avoid using heaving saddles and only carry necessary gear
•Make sure the horse is conditioned for the type of riding you doing
•Keep proper riding posture and balance
•Give the horse a break on longer rides get off a while and let your horse rest
•Avoid riding in areas where footing is not desirable such as mud, deep sand, asphalt
•Avoid letting the horse trot or canter
The maximum weight a horse can safely carry does vary by the breed of the horse and how hard its worked. There is no absolute rule about how much weight a horse can carry, but generally speaking the lighter-framed the horse the less he can carry. A well conditioned horse or a stout horse can generally carry more. Some breeds are bred to carry heavier weights like the Quarter Horse, Arabian or Icelandic Pony. Riders with good balance also make weight load less of a problem.
Hoof abscess can be painful for your horse, but if you act without delay, the healing can be resolved fairly quickly. A hoof abscess will often appear as if your horse is lame and will not want to place weight on his leg. If you try to lead him, you may be met with resistance. The abscess may also be seen from underneath the hoof in the form of oozing blackish pus.
An abscess occurs when fluid or pus collects inside the hoof to fight off a source of infection. Because the hoof does not expand, the increased pressure within the hoof causes the horse pain. Left untreated, an abscess will migrate up through the hoof following the path of least resistance until it eventually seeps out through the hoof wall, often at the coronary band.
A hoof abscess can develop from an infection caused by things like:
Call your horse veterinarian at any signs of lameness or hoof abscess. If the vet isolates your horses pain to a hoof abscess, he may use a hoof abscess tool to create a precise hole in the hoof to allow fluid to drain more quickly. You will need to keep the hoof clean and protected. Your vet will probably instruct you to periodically soak the hoof and clean the infected area thoroughly. You may also be instructed to walk your horse daily to help increase blood circulation and to help speed up draining.
If a drain hole is unable to be made, then the course of action may be to allow the abscess to run off through the coronary band, an easy path within the hoof for pus to escape. Unfortunately, if the only course of action is for the abscess to heal on its own, this will be a slower and more painful process for your horse. Occasionally, antibiotics may be administered to ease some of the pain of a hoof abscess. Applying a poultice created from warm linseed mash may help speed the healing process by softening the hoof and increasing the blood circulation.
A horse halter is headgear you put on your horse to guide him. It fits over the back of the neck, just behind the ears and around your horse's muzzle. Unlike a bridle, a halter does not have a bit that goes into your horse's mouth. Halters are used to help retrieve, lead, or hold your horse. Once the halter is fastened around your horse's head, you can then lead him by pulling on the muzzle part of the halter.
Halters are made of varying material and workmanship (and of course, a wide range of prices). Leather halters tend to be the most expensive, but are the most durable if you take the time to keep them in good condition. Rope halters are made from braded material such as cotton or sometimes nylon and are generally very inexpensive. You can buy premade rope halters or make your own (they are fun and easy to make). Rope halters tend to stretch or shrink requiring frequent readjustment. Nylon halters constructed in a flat web design are cheaper than leather halters and last a great deal longer than cotton rope halters. Nylon horse halters cleaned easily and are not usually subjected to rotting or mildew.
The type of horse halter you use is simply a matter of preference. And regardless of the kind of halter you use with your horse, you put it on the same.
Putting a Halter on Your Horse
1. Before placing a halter on your horse, you should first check the halter and lead rope for any damage or excessive wear. Start by making sure the halter is unbuckled and attaching the lead rope to the tie ring on the halter.
2. Speak to your horse and approach him from the front so he can see you. Walk toward his left shoulder.
3. Loop the lead rope around your horse's neck by passing it under his neck using your left hand and grabbing the rope with your right hand over the top of his neck. Gather both ends of the lead rope together in your right hand to keep your horse from wandering.
4. Changeover the lead rope to your left hand, and grasp both sides of the halter near the nose band. Slip the noseband around your horse's muzzle and slide it up and around your horse's nose.
5. Wrap the halter strap over your horse's head just behind his ears. Fasten the buckle so it is not too tight or too loose. If you can fit two fingers between your horse's cheekbone and the noseband, then the halter is adjusted about right.
6. Unwrap the lead rope from around your horse's neck. You are now ready to lead your horse.
You pull back your curtains to reveal old man winter's masterpiece. The ground is shimmering in the sunlight. Before you or your family dares to venture out into this extraordinary white world, you bundle up in your best gear; snow boots, gloves, scarves, carry hand warmers, eat a good breakfast, and brew hot chocolate upon your return. You might bring a water bottle with you if a snowball fight is on your mind, or a shovel to clear the driveway. The point is that if we do these things for our family, why not for our horses too? There are many problems that can occur for a horse due to winter's harsh conditions. With proper care and a bit of extra effort these problems can be easily avoided.
Cover Up!
Most horses adapt well to cold weather so stabling is not necessary. What is necessary is somewhere they can get away from the elements. A small lean-to or timberline works well for this. Many horse owners, whose horses spend the majority of time inside, invest in a horse blanket. Horses that spend more time outside, develop thick winter coats and will be more comfortable without a blanket. Horse blankets vary greatly from thickness to materials used. It is important to find a blanket that suits your horse's needs and your budget.
Rubber VS. Plastic
One of the hardest tasks winter brings is water trough maintenance. If you live in an area that frequently dips below freezing, a soccer ball floating in the trough will prevent the water from becoming a giant ice cube. Stores also carry water trough heaters for areas prone to extreme thick ice. While rubber buckets cost more than plastic ones, it's well worth your money to invest in a rubber trough. Ice can easily be removed from rubber troughs by turning the bucket upside down. Plastic troughs will freeze and crack open. Clean, available water is essential.
Feeding Time
A winter feeding program should be established before winter's first snow. Just like any other animal, a horse needs time to adjust to changes in food. One thought to consider is during the last summer months weaning your horse off pasture grass, which will be covered during the winter months, and slowly introduce more fodder into their diet. Feeding your companion more fodder during the winter months will help them to maintain a healthy body temperature. As horses digest, heat is produced. This heat produced by the digestive system is what keeps the horse warm.
Hoof Care
Proper hoof care is crucial! If a horse's hoofs are allowed to grow the chances of them cracking or chipping increases greatly. Keeping them trim will prevent any damage and give the horse better traction. Another less obvious step in hoof care is to check your horse regularly for packed ice within the hoof. When ice builds up under the hoof it is a gateway to sole bruises, which can develop into abscesses. Ice build up can be prevented by Vaseline, cooking spray or pads on the bottom of the hoof installed by your farrier.
Pasture Safety
Remove any obstacles, fix gates and fences, fill holes, and take away manure. Make sure your gates are high enough to allow them to easily pass over any snow that might build up. It is also nice to have a firm area for yourself to stand while grooming or working your horse. Winter can be brutal but with the proper horse care any horse can be safe and stay healthy throughout even the coldest of winter months.
A basic part of horse hoof care is simply picking out the mud, manure, stones and other debris from the sole of your horse's hooves. It is simple and yet, this one of the most neglect parts of horse care. Keeping your horse's hooves clean goes a long way to help prevent common hoof ailments. At times, your horse may get small stones lodged in the grooves of the frog, which can cause bruising. Picking out your horse's hooves also removes packed mud or snow, which can make it uncomfortable for your horse to walk. Cleaning your horse's feet will allow you to see problems such as a puncture wound from something like a nail.
You will certainly hear or read from horsemen recommending you pick your horse's feet at least once daily, as well as before and after a ride. This is no doubt good advice, but in practical terms, don't go longer than a week without cleaning and inspecting your horse's hooves.
Keeping your horse's feet clean and dry as much as possible helps prevent thrush. The flooring of the stable should not be damp and allow for drainage. Your horse's paddock area should provide drainage to minimize the amount of time he has to stand in water and mud. Most of the moisture your horse's hooves need come from within the hoof itself and is provided by a healthy diet. Constant contact with wet conditions promotes rapid drying of the hooves and will cause them to start cracking and chipping.
Applying a hoof dressing can improve the moisture content of hooves and help prevent them from cracking. Rubbing hoof dressing on all parts of the hoof including the hoof wall, frog, heel and coronet can stimulate healthy new hoof growth. However, you should not apply hoof dressing too often as it may prevent the hooves from absorbing moisture naturally.
In the wild, a horse's feet wear down about the same rate as they grow. A domestic horse's hooves typically do not wear down as quickly since their hooves may be shod preventing them from wearing naturally, or simply because they are not subjected to such severe living conditions and consequently their feet grow faster than can be worn down.
In general, hooves need to be trimmed every six to eight weeks requiring the routine care of a professional farrier. The services of a reliable and experienced farrier are vital to helping keep your horse's hooves healthy. When choosing a farrier, ask other horse owners in your area and your veterinarian for a recommendation. Do not wait until you need a farrier before trying to find one.
Your farrier can help you decide whether or not your horse needs to be shod. Horses that are ridden a lot or work on hard terrain may need horseshoes or boots to protect their hooves. If your horse's hooves wear too much, the protective outer covering starts to be lost and the foot can become sensitive causing lameness. On the other hand, if your horse is more of a field ornament to be looked at or is only ridden occasionally then he most likely doesn't need to be shod. Regardless if your horse is shod or not, his hooves will need regular trimming to keep them shaped properly.
Without regular trimming, a horse's hooves will grow too long and can lead to hoof splitting, chipping, cracking and lameness. Long hooves can put your horse's leg limbs out of balance. Hooves need to be trimmed to keep them at the correct length and shape so contact with the ground will be uniform and will not cause the hoof to chip or split. Shod horses especially need a farrier's attention on a regular basis due to hoof growth loosening the shoes and growing over the edge of the shoes.
An important part of your horses health care needs is for you to develop a partnership with a veterinarian prior to an emergency. You can begin developing a partnership by consulting your veterinarian for your horse's routine and preventive health care.
Your horse should be vaccinated at least once a year. The type of vaccinations your horse requires is determined by age and overall health. Your veterinarian can recommend what vaccinations your horse needs.
In the U.S., you may want to help protect your horse by vaccinating for the West Nile Virus. Contact your veterinarian if you see any of these signs in your horse; loss of appetite, depression, fever, stumbling or tripping, weakness in the legs, impaired vision, wandering or circling, inability to swallow, partial paralysis, head pressing or tilt, inability to stand up, convulsions.
De-worm your horse several times each year. It is recommended to alternate de-worming products and different de-worming classifications (mebendazole, organosphosphate, avermectine, etc.). Most de-wormers must be used every 60 days. Paste de-worming is as effective as tube de-worming. It is best to consult with your veterinarian when establishing a de-worming program.
The old de-worming tubes come in handy to dispense tablets to your horse. Crush the tablets and put into the tube. Add a little bit of water and shake until a paste forms. Then administer it like you would a de-wormer.
Teeth should also be checked once a year. Your horse's teeth may need to be filed due to uneven wear. Symptoms of improper chewing include feed falling from your horse's mouth while chewing, your horse holds its head to one side to chew, wasted feed, excessive slobbering, indigestion, and large amounts of whole grain in the feces. Your horse's teeth may need to be checked if it is starting to take longer to eat its feed. Strong, sour odors from the mouth can be indications of tooth cavities or food particles lodged in the mouth. If you horse eats, but seems to be losing weight, or maybe is not handling as well while riding anymore, then floating (filing) the teeth may be necessary to remove sharp edges that are causing discomfort or making it difficult to grind food.
Keep a first aid kit handy containing items such as diluted iodine solution, hydrogen peroxide, Neosporin, sterile gauze sponges and rolls, self-adhesive tape (vet wrap), blunt-tipped bandage scissors, topical eye ointment, sedative and pain killer. Consult with your veterinarian on what is appropriate to have in the first aid kit. Contact your veterinarian any time your horse appears sick, disoriented, or has been injured.
Many types of mineral and vitamin supplements are on the market. Use commercially prepared supplements and never exceed the recommended levels. If feeding your horse a grain concentrate, check the ingredients. Often the concentrate will provide all the necessary vitamins and minerals your horse needs without needing to add any additional supplement.
Clean your horse's hooves before and after you ride. Examine all hooves frequently for problems. Hooves need to be trimmed regularly. Most horses need to have their hooves trimmed, or shoes reset every six to eight weeks. A qualified farrier can make recommendations for your horse.
One day in late March I noticed our mare lying down in the field. This wasnt unusual as every so often she could be found resting on the ground and basking in the sun. I didnt think anything of it and went about my way. When it was time for her afternoon feeding, she had come in from the field and was eagerly waiting her rations.
The following day I looked out and once again saw her lying down. Thinking she was just being lazy, but just to be sure, I took an apple out to the fence and called her. She got up and slowly walked over to me to take the treat. I thought it was a bit odd she didnt come trotting as she usually does, but for the most part she seemed to be fine. Since she still had a healthy appetite, I was not overly concerned.
When I saw her lying down in the field for the third straight day, I was puzzled. This certainly was not normal behavior, and yet she didnt seem to be ill in any way. I walked out to see her, and as I approached she got up to greet me. I placed a halter on her and started leading her back to the paddock so I could groom her. As I was leading her, she was a bit hesitant in her walk and seemed to have an ever slight limp in her front leg. I then thought she had injured her leg or might have had something lodged in her hoof.
I closely examined her legs and feet for any signs of injury, but could find none. Since she was still eating normally and didnt appear to have any obvious injury, I thought maybe she sprained her leg. I decided I would keep a close watch on her, but I still was not too concerned.
Once again I found her lying down the following day. When I went out to greet her, she remained on the ground. I encouraged her to get up and put on her halter. She wouldnt budge when I tried to lead her. I gave her some more encouragement and she began to walk. I could see now that she was experiencing pain in both front legs and was walking very slowly and dragging her hooves.
Now being concerned, I contacted our equine vet who would not be available until the following day. When the following day rolled around, I didnt see our mare lying down, but instead she was standing. She was standing, though, in a very peculiar manner with her weight shifted toward her back legs while pushing back on the heals of her front hooves. I could see her back legs were very weak from supporting the weight shifted to them.
Seeing our mare in this condition, I thought it best to cancel the field visit by our vet and trailer her to a large animal hospital that would be better suited to diagnose and treat whatever condition she may have. The equine hospital staff where I took our mare specialized in lameness in horses. After watching her walk and taking x-rays, the hospital staff determined she had laminitis and began to founder. This is a condition where the coffin bone inside the hoof detaches from the wall and begins to rotate downward.
In our mares case, her condition was actually fairly minor. Though the animal hospital could not tell me with any certainty what caused the condition, they advised removing her from the grain supplement I had been feeding. The treatment was simple. They had me administer bute for a few days for the pain. But more importantly, they provided instructions to our farrier on how to trim our mares hooves so the tips were much shorter and more rounded. Much like the natural condition of horses in the wild. In about four weeks she was back to her normal self again.
Shortly thereafter, I began feeding her a sand colic preventative. To get her to eat it, I went ahead and added some grain. After about three days, our mare began to walk funny again and drag her front hooves. After consulting with the animal hospital who originally diagnosed her condition, they immediately had me stop feeding the grain, once again stating that a rich grain diet is believed to be a source that could trigger the onset of laminitis. So after going on an alpha hay only diet with more frequent farrier visits, our mare has been doing well ever since.
Grooming your horse does not have to be long and laborious. With the right tools and established routine, you can be done in no time. For starters, keep all of your horses grooming tools in a carry container so they are easy to find and so you dont have to go running back and forth to look for and fetch the tool you need.
Common items you will want to keep in your horses grooming kit include:
Groom your horse in an open area and secure him using a halter and lead rope by tying him loosely to a post or railing using a quick release knot. This way, should your horse panic and bolt, this will lessen the risk of injury to both of you.
Where do you begin grooming? Some people start with the hooves, while some start with the head, and others simply start somewhere in between. It really doesnt matter where you start, its the fact you are taking the time to care for your horse that counts.
1. My preference is to start with the hooves. Using a hoof pick, remove any debris starting with the heel moving toward the toe. Use a brush to remove any remaining dirt.
2. Using a damp sponge, gently clean around your horses eyes, muzzle and ears. You can carefully use a very soft bristle brush to brush along the face and forelock areas if your horse will let you. I prefer just using a grooming mitt and my hand.
3. Using a rubber currycomb, use soft circular motions from the top of your horses neck down toward his shoulders. Then use a brush to remove the dirt loosened by the curry comb.
4. Use the rubber currycomb to loosen dirt on your horses body by using smooth circular strokes. Be careful in bony areas such as the shoulders and back. To loosen dirt, it is best to go against the grain of the hair. Next, use a brush in a downward direction to flick away dirt loosened by the currycomb. Once most of the dirt is removed, use a body brush to flatten out and smooth the hair using long sweeping strokes.
5. Just as with your horses face, take care when brushing his legs as they are bony and have tender skin. Use a soft brush on your horses legs. I prefer to simply use my hands or use a grooming mitt.
6. Using a mane comb, gently comb through your horses mane. Using a little bit of detangler first helps when combing out the mane. Dont force out tangles with the comb and pull out hairs, instead remove tough tangles with your hands. Use a stiff brush from underneath to further comb out the mane, followed by a soft brush to lay it back down.
7. Just like the mane, spraying your horses tail with detangler will make brushing it easier. Use a stiff brush to clean and brush the tail. Use your hands to remove tough tangles and avoid breaking hairs. Use a body brush from top to bottom of the tail a few times to make it flowing.
8. Use a towel and wipe it over your horses coat to help bring out the shine. You can spray the towel with conditioner to bring out more of the shine. During the summer months, its a good idea to apply an application of fly repellent all over your horse.
9. Apply hoof dressing to help keep your horses hooves moisturized.
10. Give your horse a small treat when you are done grooming him to further show your appreciation of him. Regular grooming with the same routine will cut down the time needed and will make it more enjoyable for both you and your horse.
A horse is a companion like no otherit feels very mystical when you get a horse thats right for you
If you are venturing out to buy a horse, then that means you have done all of your homework and have researched and understand all that is involved in horse ownershipyou are aware of the long-term commitment required and know the responsibility and costs involved in owning a horse. And you have made arrangements to provide a suitable home for your new horse.
That said, you will want to have some idea on the kind of horse youre looking for before going horse shopping. What characteristics and personality do you want your horse to have? You can gain some idea by using your own past experience taking trail rides or riding lessons, going to horse shows, reading horse magazines or talking to horse owners. Knowing what sort of horse you want before shopping will help keep you focused and not get caught up in a spontaneous purchase, only to find out later on you ended up with the wrong horse. You also need to know what your horse-buying budget is and only concentrate on shopping for horses within your established price range.
Never rush a horse purchase. Take your time and avoid getting caught up in the excitement of horse shopping and making an impulse buy that does not turn out well. When taking your time to shop for a horse, you can reduce your risk of buying the wrong horse by at least 75%.
There are some alternatives to owning a horse if you decide you might not quite be ready. Taking riding lessons allows you to improve your skills while allowing you to be around horses. In this regard, you get to participate in all the fun activities without having all the hard work and expenses.
Horse camps are also a fun way for adults and children to be with horses. These camps are typically designed to teach you horsemanship and to provide you with horse riding training.
Leasing a horse is also a good option if youre not too sure about the long-term commitment required to care for a horse. With a leased horse, you will have the full responsibility of horse ownership; however, you are not stuck with the horse if you later decide having a horse is not for you.
Co-ownership may also be an option. Sharing ownership with a friend who is also a horse enthusiast is another way to reduce or share chores and expenses. Both of you get the joy of owning a horse, but with less cost and labor. Co-ownership also allows you to more easily schedule for vacations and such.
Co-ownership with a friend who is also a horse enthusiast is another way to reduce or share chores and expenses. You both get the enjoyment of having a horse, but with less cost and labor. This also allows you to more easily schedule for vacations.
When horse shopping, keep in mind a good saddle horse is one that is comfortable with a saddle on its back, is gentle in nature, is in good health and has a good disposition. If you are not going to the only rider, then you will need to base your purchasing decision with the least proficient rider in mind.
For the first time owner, you are going to want a horse that has a good personality and is forgiving of small mistakes. A well trained older horse of at least 5 years or older with a pleasant demeanor is recommended.
If you are new to horses, then you should have a horse expert or veterinarian help you evaluate the condition of the horse before you buy. You will want to check the horse over and to make sure the hooves are in good shape. The horses coat should be shiny and smooth. Its eyes should look clear, bright and alert.
A good saddle horse should have a long straight back with flat sides (no ribs poking out). Take the reigns and walk the horse. Evaluate whether the horse limps or displays any physical problem. When climbing into the saddle, the horse should stay still and try to move away. Ride the horse and see how he responds to your commands.
You will also want to understand why the horse is being sold. When making the purchase, be sure you get a bill of sale that clearly describes the horse and its markings in addition to the purchase price and payment terms. Have the owner sign the registration papers. If the owner has lost the registration papers, then you will probably want the sale to be contingent upon obtaining new registration papers. It can be a bit expensive to get new papers with document research and replacement fees and having someone come out to authenticate the horse.
When you are in the market for a horse, a good place to start is through personal contacts. If you know horse owners or are taking horse lessons through an instructor, ask these people if they know of any horses for sale. Through their inner-circle of horse friends, vets, farriers, feed stores, tack shops, and such, they may know of where a good horse might be for sale. They can also give you some pointers on the type of horse that may be best for you.
Your horse should be fed, at minimum, twice a day. More frequent is better since a horses stomach is small and designed to graze (where small amounts of food constantly enters and leaves the stomach). Feed your horse at the same times each day, and once your horse adapts to these times, dont arbitrarily change them. If you do need to change feeding times, do it gradually. Also, dont just arbitrarily change what your horse eats. Again, if you must make a change, do it gradually giving your horse some of the old while gradually mixing in the new.
